1800W Induction Cooktop Teardown

Remove 3 bigger screws to free the coil platform from the base of the unit, and unplug the thermistor cable to remove the coil entirely.  Here’s the back of the coil when it’s set over on the cooktop side.  Note the radiating ferrite bars and the thermistor connection.


Fig 5 – Back of the Work Coil



With the work coil removed, we can see the guts of the power electronics.  Now here’s where we start salivating.  Mmmm giant iron powder toroids (2 x 300uH standing up and 1 x 400uH laying flat), mystery heatsinked power stage and some hefty caps.  Everything else is fluff and housekeeping.


Fig 6 – Power PCB After Work Coil Removal




Let’s take a quick peek at these hardcore capacitors.  They are by far the nicest component in the entire device, and probably accounted for 30% of the cost.  Guess they are truly necessary.  We’ll be looking at the upper left hand side of the PCB above the heat sink.


Fig 7 – Cap Glamour Shot.  Note the Lugs for the Coil Between Caps.



The 8uF is the input cap located right after the bridge rectifier.  They run this thing almost like a PFC so he eats a LOT of ripple at 60Hz.  The 2 x 0.33uF are the resonant tank caps, connected in parallel and running at 20kHz.  you’d like to see another angle?  Sure thing!

Fig 8 – A View Past One Resonant Cap, Down the PCB


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