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Heat Gun Homebrew SMT Rework Tutorial

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Completed PCB with EEPROM removed

Fig 7 – Cleanup Done  


Here’s a picture of the completed board with the cap resoldered.   All in all, this process took about 15 minutes.   If you’re just getting started with this sort of thing, it’s probably best to find some old or broken piece of equipment and take his IC’s off one-by-one to practice.   Use this time to determine how long it takes to melt solder with your heat gun, and also how much longer you have until the PCB warps, bubbles, or peels.   Good Luck!

You can continue with Part 2 of this article, installing a socket onto this PCB.

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3 comments to Heat Gun Homebrew SMT Rework Tutorial

  • [...] a PLCC EEPROM Socket onto a MOBO By openschemes, on October 20th, 2009 If you’ve read the first part of this series, you already know how to remove an IC from a printed circuit board.   Specifically, the IC we [...]

  • Fuming Solder

    Speaking of collateral damage – I would totally cover that battery holder made of low-temp melting ABS! I mean, you got lucky you did not damage it, just the cap, but it would have been much more difficult to fix if you did. Also, I’d use a reducer nozzle for that heat gun. Check in the box the gun came in, there are usually a few nozzles thrown in, even with the cheapest guns. There’s usually a flat one for burning/scraping off paint, and it should do OK to better control the direction of the flow. Anyways, the guys at the Electronics Repair group here http://www.electrondepot.com/repair/ would have a field day with this technique :)

    • openschemes

      Thanks for the tips – that reducing nozzle sounds like just the thing. The one we used didn’t come with any nozzles but I bet they’re an easy pickup at your local big box hardware store. Good luck!

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