Fig 5 – Removing the device. Notice the Long Tweezers
After removal, you’ll probably need to do some cleanup. Either components will have moved, or solder will have bridged across the PCB pads or the IC pins. Just accept the cleanup phase and don’t try to half-ass it. You can use a standard soldering iron for the cleanup, and solder wick (desoldering braid) is invaluable. Below, we show a capacitor who was blown off his pad by the air. You’ll need to look around for things like this, lest you end up with a board that mysteriously doesn’t work as well. It’s no mystery – you screwed something up. There are no such things as electronics gremlins that come in and cause glitches to a previously good system. Go find the problem, fix it, and the board will work as designed.
Fig 6 – Collateral Damage
[...] a PLCC EEPROM Socket onto a MOBO By openschemes, on October 20th, 2009 If you’ve read the first part of this series, you already know how to remove an IC from a printed circuit board. Specifically, the IC we [...]
Speaking of collateral damage – I would totally cover that battery holder made of low-temp melting ABS! I mean, you got lucky you did not damage it, just the cap, but it would have been much more difficult to fix if you did. Also, I’d use a reducer nozzle for that heat gun. Check in the box the gun came in, there are usually a few nozzles thrown in, even with the cheapest guns. There’s usually a flat one for burning/scraping off paint, and it should do OK to better control the direction of the flow. Anyways, the guys at the Electronics Repair group here http://www.electrondepot.com/repair/ would have a field day with this technique
Thanks for the tips – that reducing nozzle sounds like just the thing. The one we used didn’t come with any nozzles but I bet they’re an easy pickup at your local big box hardware store. Good luck!